Hi all, just to let you know had a really nice run out in my modded C5 today - as you will see I've been busy over the last few weeks.

I have totally stripped and rewired the beast, all the main wiring and relays etc. are now under the front panel on top of the transmission tunnel between the pedals - I have done this as it is easier to access all these bits and mod and repair etc, and it keeps them all out of the way of dirt and wet from the road.

I can house up to 5 AGM scooter batteries, 2 in each footwell under seat and 1 fixed in the boot. Have put bolts thru the boot supports and my boot lock is mounted in an alloy plate.

I have used 13 relays to allow me to run on 12, 24, 36, 48 and 60 volts - on 12v they are all connected in parallel, for the other voltages they are used in a combination of serial and parallel. 12, 24,36 and 48 volts are available from the handlebar buttons and all the above plus 60v available from the switches on the dash.

I have added even more cooling holes to the motor and end case and have added an LED thermometer which updates more quickly than the previous LCD one.

Also added handlebar controls for indicators, horn and lights (Hong Kong special £1.99) which work well. Am still using the tried and trusted Pep/Chas disc brake and my 3 speed sturmey gears.

I had a run out today with just 1 scooter battery in the boot (am awaiting for more batteries to arrive) and I was surprised how well it went with just the one small (and light) battery in the boot, rather than my usual 2 humungus leisure batteries.

Just waiting for my extra batteries to try up to 60 volts - will let you know how it goes - in meantime please have a look at my attached photos.

You have done a great job there Kamzstrad

Hi well done ....You don't have to be a rocket scientist to wire a C5 but you would have to be one to wire this one up Great ........ \:d/ \:d/ \:d/ \:d/ \:d/ \:d/

Just a couple more pics I meant to put on but forgot. Doh !!

you using a standard motor ? Gosh thought the touch ad a lot of wires lol

[quote=dave;2688]you using a standard motor ? Gosh thought the touch ad a lot of wires lol[/quote]

LOL Dave it has got a lot of wires, the wiring of the relays is a work of art. I dread to think what the top speed of it will be if the full 60V is used, you'll need to strap yourself in Kamztrad.

Forgot to add, if you do get this going at super fast speeds you'll have to make a video for all to see, I for one would love to see it moving

Thanks guys, I'll definitely get back to you when I find out how it goes, and if it goes well I'll make you a video, have to dust off my cycle helmet and fire extinguisher !!??
kamztrad

and parachute to stop you

Hi do think two motors would better than one check out my video
http://youtu.be/7Rs4LlQGU84

Bye Chas

Hi Chas, 2 motors might well be better than one, I am going to try the one for now but have looked at your video and am intrigued, how long ago did you do the twin motor c5, how well did it work and what power did you run it on,
Cheers
kamztrad

Just an update on the 60V c5 - have had the chance to give it a rip and the result was a curious mix of surprise, disappointment and fear.

Managed to get a clear run down a long gentle slope and it quickly became apparent that this was unlike any trip I had had in a C5 before. Accelerated through 12,24 36,48 and finally 60 volts and passed through 40 mph easily - I have to say that on reaching 45 mph I shut off the power as it was really rather scary.

Also there was a nasty smell of burning but I don't think I had the nerve to push on faster as I began to realise what might happen if anything broke and I came out of the cockpit!!

On coming to a halt having coasted some distance at speed, and on further inspection, it became apparent that the plastic brush holders in the motor had melted and stopped the brushes from moving, thus the motor no longer worked, so had a slow pedal back home.

If I could find a way to stop the holders melting or find some holders in a different material I would be interested to go again - I don't think that 50+ mph would be any problem (holding my nerve might be though! lol )

For now I have converted back 12/24v which now provides more acceleration and performance given that I am now using mobility scooter batteries which can give me 24v at half the weight (range is less obviously). I am retaining all the wiring and capability for 60V and will see if I can get different brush holders or an uprated motor!?

Even at the 60V the gearbox with Chas's metal insert came to no harm and was not damaged in any way - so hats off to Chas again!!

kamztrad

You could always upgrade the cooling fan to a snail fan this will produce more airflow weather this
Is enough I don't know but the more airflow the cooler it will be

Perhaps a good idea. The motor itself and casing, gearbox, magnets etc were all ok but it was just the brush holders that melted, looks like a snail fan would output a lot more cool air.
Cheers Area

kamztrad

Hi there well and thanks for the comments (metal gearbox insert )
bye Chas

yes chas the insert is good well done with that mod kam im willing to take it out for a spin on 60 v

Hi kamztrad,

did you ever sort out your problem with the melting bush holders at 60v?

If not, and you still want to continue, I may have a solution for you.

Cheers.

Karl.

Hi Karl, still got the 60v C5 but never got over the melting brushes problem, would be grateful to know of your possible solution.
Cheers
kamztrad

Hi kamztrad,

This may look a bit long winded, don't worry it is.

There is a two component adhesive called J-B Weld, this stuff is fantastic and expensive. When it sets it's like metal, you can drill and tap the stuff (I've done it myself many times), plus it's heat resistant, they claim, to 288°C.

The idea that I have is to remove brushes etc from the motor housing and plug the holes in the casing with this J-B Weld. When it's set, drill and file the plug so that you can slide the brush housings into the aperture (i.e. a tight fit). But before you permanently insert the bush housings, slip a collar (metal or plastic) over the cable. This collar will be used to pot the cable and brush housing to the motor body. If you use a metal collar it can be left in place to dissipate the heat.

The only problem with this solution is, IT'S PERMANENT. How to change the brushes in the future?



I hope the idea may be of some use to you.

Av phun.

Karl.

P.S. The J-B Weld can be bought in most DIY stores, car accessory shops, or like me, from ebay. The sort you need is the 'Formula Steel Reinforced Epoxy'.