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dave posted:

Put me down for 1 plz as the board put the nano to the left of the board and rtc were the nano is now there won't be a relay and cur sensor on - wire on uni8 and run wire from fhan into control box = smaller control box ?
posted on: 22/06/2013 19:35:50

Guest posted:

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... Copied and pasted all that
posted on: 22/06/2013 19:45:42

dave posted:

Me to marra ? Lol you not got a uni 8 have you ?
posted on: 22/06/2013 20:06:02

Guest posted:

Me to marra ? Lol you not got a uni 8 have you ?


Have one in a box for a c5 project some time, just building a more suitable fanned alloy heatsink to take more constant amps from the uni 8.
posted on: 22/06/2013 20:12:42

Dan posted:

as the board put the nano to the left of the board and rtc were the nano is now there won't be a relay and cur sensor on - wire on uni8 and run wire from fhan into control box = smaller control box ?


Yep, there wont be anything getting in the way of the nano this time, and the rtc wont be hanging over the edge of the pcb. Like you said, they'll be no relay and the current sensor can move next to the uni 8 so the control box case can be much smaller.

That's Dave & Marra down for one 24V board. Although I call it 24V it can still be used in 12V/relay operated C5's

just building a more suitable fanned alloy heatsink to take more constant amps from the uni 8.

Does that mean the uni-8 heatsink gets too hot if you go full speed for too long?
posted on: 23/06/2013 09:27:31

Guest posted:



Does that mean the uni-8 heatsink gets too hot if you go full speed for too long?


Hi dan. Not really unless you are using a high watt motor. The uni 8 continuous is around 30 amps, if you want to hit 40 then you are limited to around 2 mins top. Also bear in mind that heat is a huge waste and the uni 8 does get hot inside, totaly forget about just holding the plastic case and thinking " its just warm ", if its warm then those little components must be cooking. used uni 8's on countless e-bike builds. thanks m
posted on: 23/06/2013 22:00:19

Dan posted:


Hi dan. Not really unless you are using a high watt motor. The uni 8 continuous is around 30 amps, if you want to hit 40 then you are limited to around 2 mins top. Also bear in mind that heat is a huge waste and the uni 8 does get hot inside, totaly forget about just holding the plastic case and thinking " its just warm ", if its warm then those little components must be cooking. used uni 8's on countless e-bike builds. thanks m


Thanks for the info Marra, the plain old c5 motor wont be a problem then I guess you just need to stick a huge heatsink and cooling fan on it if you want to use something more powerful
posted on: 24/06/2013 20:12:54

dave posted:

I'm getting bored lol when is this board going to be ready ?
posted on: 27/06/2013 07:20:22

Dan posted:

I'm getting bored lol when is this board going to be ready ?


Patience David I've sent the board off to be printed yesterday, so like the previous version, will take about 3-4 weeks to arrive Hopefully I've got it right this time.
posted on: 27/06/2013 17:48:23

dave posted:

Got any pics of it and as it got holes to screw it to the project box ?
posted on: 27/06/2013 18:04:04

Dan posted:

Got any pics of it and as it got holes to screw it to the project box ?


Yeah, I posted the design file screenshot on the main post. Yep it has 4 holes for you to attach it to whatever you want
posted on: 27/06/2013 18:35:39

Dan posted:

Hi Dave,

I got your board yesterday and have put it together and it works fine.  There were 2 problems with the setup as you had it:

1. The RTC module seems to be none-functioning, so have replaced it with one that works.
2. The external temp sensor LM35 was wired back to front, so I have replaced this as it was damaged







Note that the voltage says 5.0V. This is due to me not connecting anything to the voltage sensor input which in your case will the a wire coming from your +24V battery side.  When you get all this back, leave the wires that I connected to the board as they are and do not connect any other wires to the board until you have verified it works as-is.

Get yourself a multimeter too, you need one if you're planning on putting this display on your C5
posted on: 23/02/2014 12:19:30

dave posted:

This is all fitted to the c5 big thanks to chas for the front and rear disc brake mods and 24v harness all that's left is bracket mount for speedo ( reed switch ) mount then done hey another medal lol oh and thanks to chas again for the gearbox insert .area52 1/2 for skimming the motor cheers buddy .And Marra for the 68 tooth steel drive cog wheel? Can't put any more mods on this can I ?
posted on: 08/05/2014 23:48:35

dave posted:

Red bits fitted too thanks dan for taking time to designing the pod and software and the plastic bits and bobs

posted on: 15/05/2014 17:22:45
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