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blastfromthepast posted:

Have a problem with the left hand side LEDs. on ignition the left hand side LEDs are lit normally with only the outer LEDs lit. then on pressing go, after 50m or so all the LEDs on the left side flash and the motor stops. this can be reset by pressing the red cutout button and turning the key again. And another 50m can be achieved. This is going to take a quite a while to get from A -> B any ideas anyone?
posted on: 07/03/2015 15:09:04

blastfromthepast posted:

fixed it for others stumbling across this post, here's the symptoms: - after 50 metres or so of driving, the motor cut out accompanied by the left hand side LEDs all flashing. A quick reset of the key and another 50 metres are accomplished before cut out and flashing LEDs - with the drive wheel held off the ground, the motor would run without cut out solution: - uplugged the heat sensor (the one held on to the side of the motor & gave it a clean - unplugged the probe looking thing that inserts into the motor & gave it a clean - reseated all happily did a few laps round the block, no cut out whatsoever. big smile engaged on face and neighbours pointing. its running on the original tyres, they are a little cracked in places, but runs ok. as you can see from the photo below, my neighbours van is clearly a wannabe c5
posted on: 08/03/2015 15:55:05

SINCLAIR C5 CHAS posted:

Well done happy motoring Chas
posted on: 08/03/2015 17:38:37

Karl posted:

Hi Gary, good to read that you got it going again. The problem wasn't with the thermal cutout switch (Mounted on motor case), but the thermistor (probe). The thermistor measures the internal heat of the motor, now if this is not mounted correctly the tube will rub against the armature. The friction will quickly produce heat, as soon as the temperature reaches the critical point the motor cuts out. As the motor was cold it doesn't take long for the thermistor to cool, and bingo you are ready to go again. When mounting the thermistor holder, ensure that all the holder clips are fully engaged and it's fully locked onto the motor. There should be no gap between the holder and the motor case. If the motor is mounted, feel with your finger nail that there is no uneven gap between the holder and the motor case.
posted on: 08/03/2015 22:26:19

blastfromthepast posted:

Hi Gary, good to read that you got it going again. The problem wasn't with the thermal cutout switch (Mounted on motor case), but the thermistor (probe). The thermistor measures the internal heat of the motor, now if this is not mounted correctly the tube will rub against the armature. The friction will quickly produce heat, as soon as the temperature reaches the critical point the motor cuts out. As the motor was cold it doesn't take long for the thermistor to cool, and bingo you are ready to go again. When mounting the thermistor holder, ensure that all the holder clips are fully engaged and it's fully locked onto the motor. There should be no gap between the holder and the motor case. If the motor is mounted, feel with your finger nail that there is no uneven gap between the holder and the motor case.
good to know, thanks. what i found surprising is that it ran ok on my 1st test, and on my 1st test i simply disconnected both the probe and the mounted cutout switch. I had assumed they being disconnected would prevent the motor running at all. me putting them back, as you suggested meant they were back properly.
posted on: 08/03/2015 23:23:11