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dave posted:

Having seen this on c5alive thought got to have 1 was on ebay seaching for parts saw this website and joined anyway when dan wanted beta testers I jumped at the chance a up to date and cool looking c5 keep you up to date on how I get on
posted on: 26/05/2013 11:10:25

Dan posted:

Hi Dave, I'll post anything to do with your C5 touch here I thinks I managed to do some basic tests (with a PC brushless fan) on your board this evening to test all the MOSFET's and associated components all work and are wired up correctly and, you'll be pleased to here, everything works fine: All I've done so far is solder on a 2-way socket to where the relay needs to be connected. I'll put the regulator on it tomorrow and then put it in my C5 for a full functional test. Thanks! Dan
posted on: 04/06/2013 18:57:19

dave posted:

Cheers mate I'll sleep to night lol
posted on: 04/06/2013 19:08:42

dave posted:

The think that worried me the most as you can see the rtc mount ran out of headers and the the back of the sceen end ? And yep I can't sleep
posted on: 05/06/2013 04:09:22

Dan posted:

The think that worried me the most as you can see the rtc mount ran out of headers and the the back of the sceen end ? And yep I can't sleep
It's all fine from what I can see. I've added the regulator for you. The RTC is all good and working. The only thing that was wrong was the TX/RX connections on the cable, you had them TX to TX and RX to RX. Should be TX to RX and RX to TX, though I don't think I explained that anywhere I've uploaded the software to both arduinos and connected them together to test the connectivity: And I've put the heatsink on for you: I'll whack it in the C5 tonight and see what happens
posted on: 05/06/2013 07:47:58

dave posted:

Cheers mate 1 owe you 1 or 2 thanks just hope it don't go bang we're do you get the power supply from ?
posted on: 05/06/2013 12:20:13

Dan posted:

Cheers mate 1 owe you 1 or 2 thanks just hope it don't go bang we're do you get the power supply from ?
The power supply when its in the C5? You just plug the battery into the Blue terminals on the board, via some sort of wiring kit of course (like Chas's safety kit). You always need some sort of emergency off switch I've just put it in the C5 and tested everything and its all good: I'll get all you're stuff packed up and posted back to you tomorrow
posted on: 05/06/2013 18:52:06

dave posted:

That's good news can't wait to get it fitted ? All I need is a wiring diagram and what wire to get ?
posted on: 05/06/2013 19:37:40

dave posted:

2 frames and an axle what other bits you got ? I'll take the first project. box you had if you don't mind to use as a template
posted on: 05/06/2013 19:59:29

dave posted:

Noticed you have no top hats at rear end got a spare 1 if you want it ?
posted on: 05/06/2013 20:03:10

Dan posted:

All I need is a wiring diagram?
Yeah, I haven't done a wiring diagram Instead use the pcb layout and this key to workout what plugs into where: OUT1 = LEFT INDICATOR (Follow polarity markings on the pcb) OUT2 = RIGHT INDICATOR OUT3 = FRONT/BACK LIGHTS OUT4 = EXT LIGHTS RELAY = Relay! FAN = Cooling fan SWI = handlebar switch INDICATORS = Indicator left, common, right T-EXT = LM35 that needs to be strapped to your C5 motor, same pinout at T-INT RD1 = Reed switch, follow pcb markings CURR = Current module, follow pcb markings
what wire to get ?
I had a load of 3A rated wire hanging around so I used mostly that plus the handlebar switch/indicators are all the original cabling.
I'll take the first project. box you had if you don't mind to use as a template
That box you see in the picture is my first (and only) project box which needs to remain on the C5. Its got loads of extra holes in it[woot]. I still haven't worked out where I'm going to put the relay. Inside the box theres not much room, and on top of it is where its going to stay for now.
2 frames and an axle what other bits you got ?
2 other C5s and not much else. A bunch of original (worn-out) tyres from the C5s. Oh, and a Zike & Indicators that's currently on Ebay.
Noticed you have no top hats at rear end got a spare 1 if you want it ?
Yeah they'd be useful, how much? I do have 1 set to go between 3 C5's but I don't usually have them on the C5 when I go out as they just come loose and vanish if I'm not careful.
posted on: 05/06/2013 21:02:50

dave posted:

Cheers for heatsink and reg got it back this morning put the screen in project box had to cut 4 x 3 mm nut and bolt down to 45 mm to hold the screen in place so it won't go back in the box now that's sorted can start on the wiring and think of away to mount the screen I workin pod is going to be cut up I'm thinkin
posted on: 07/06/2013 17:43:49

dave posted:

going to carbon wrap round the screen
posted on: 07/06/2013 18:23:53

Dan posted:

Cool, glad it got back to you okay. Both arduinos have the software on them, so no need to upload anything. Thinking about the 24V version, you could do a quick mod on the current one whereby the motor is no longer controlled by the control box but is instead wired to the uni8, like you've got yours now, only feed the ground into the current sensor first and then into the uni8. And feed a 12V supply to the control box so all the lights, sensors etc work. One of these can be used to convert the 24V into 12V. The only thing with the above is the voltage meter on the screen would obviously be wrong and the control box cannot stop the motor from being used.
posted on: 07/06/2013 18:34:53

dave posted:

24v touch ? Is there a pin number code on this soft ware ?
posted on: 07/06/2013 18:41:56

Dan posted:

24v touch ?
Yeah. I'm just thinking about it at the moment I've not tried anything
Is there a pin number code on this soft ware ?
There was, it's been disabled until I get around to fixing a couple of bugs with it.
posted on: 07/06/2013 20:34:29

dave posted:

Get thinking more lol uni 8 and touch this time next year we'll be millionaires rodney I meen dan lol I had to do that mate soz if you could get the uni 8 working with the touch that would be brill lm up for that only got room for 3 c5 lol and the boss would not like me getting another pushing my luck at 3 av fun with the uni over the weekend and keep an eye out for the boys in blue
posted on: 07/06/2013 21:08:26

Dan posted:

keep an eye out for the boys in blue
I use the 12V C5 when I'm on public roads so no need to worry about that. The 24v will only be for private land etc.
posted on: 08/06/2013 07:11:16

dave posted:

private. Land ? I use mine on the road lol
posted on: 08/06/2013 09:27:32

dave posted:

Got the current sensor how do you wire the + - s on the module there's vcc bnd out ans sence ?
posted on: 09/06/2013 16:43:21

Dan posted:

Got the current sensor how do you wire the + - s on the module there's vcc bnd out ans sence ?
Good to see you have it at last. Wiring is as follows: + = VCC - = GND S = OUT Ignore the sense pin on the module. Did you get the 3-way jumper cable? Perfect for this sort of connection. You must be ready to start putting this in the C5 now
posted on: 09/06/2013 17:09:56

dave posted:

The reed switch as not come yet got a small pfoject box for it so it can be closer to the magnet The jumper leads no going to use alarm cable ?
posted on: 09/06/2013 17:10:15

dave posted:

Yip not far of now need to go to halfords tomorrow and get the fitting for the relay can I use the led bulbs that are on the shop side of the site ?
posted on: 09/06/2013 17:57:27

Dan posted:

can I use the led bulbs that are on the shop side of the site ?
For the front/back lights, yep. They're the ones I use
posted on: 09/06/2013 18:02:23

dave posted:

So if I'm right in what u said ? I could just put the current sensor on the - wire on the uni 8 and take a feed from 1 battery to the control. Box and it would work ? But tbe uni 8 as a cut off I think if it gets to warm ? By the way from the battery is forward going to current module and wen is this going on ebay ?
posted on: 09/06/2013 21:21:33

Dan posted:

So if I'm right in what u said ? I could just put the current sensor on the - wire on the uni 8 and take a feed from 1 battery to the control. Box and it would work ? But tbe uni 8 as a cut off I think if it gets to warm ?
I think so, but as I haven't tried it myself...
By the way from the battery is forward going to current module and wen is this going on ebay ?
You means this touch board going on ebay? Can't do that, I only have one board left and that's for Marra which I'll send to you when you've completed you're own.
posted on: 10/06/2013 06:20:07

dave posted:

Dan from the relay on the board + - which gos to 86 85 ad from current sensor to relay is it 87 or 30if its 87 - 30 gos to motor - ?
posted on: 10/06/2013 17:43:25

Dan posted:

Dan from the relay on the board + - which gos to 86 85 ad from current sensor to relay is it 87 or 30if its 87 - 30 gos to motor - ?
Wiring for the relay is: 86 = Board + 85 = Board - 30 = Current sensor 87 = Motor
posted on: 10/06/2013 18:35:16

dave posted:

Cheers mate on the current sensor is it battery to forward on the module ? And will 5 amp cable be ok for battery - to the battery in on the board and for + on the board ? And 10 awg cable for the wiring ?
posted on: 10/06/2013 19:12:41

Dan posted:

Cheers mate on the current sensor is it battery to forward on the module ? And will 5 amp cable be ok for battery - to the battery in on the board and for + on the board ?
Yep, battery to the forward, 5 amp cable to power the PCB is plenty.
And 10 awg cable for the wiring ?
Yep 10 awg is fine.
posted on: 10/06/2013 19:27:42

dave posted:

As for the c5 coat I'll post you 1 if you just need 1 to have your photo taken in it ? I wonder if chas has moulded any pods yet before I cut 1 up
posted on: 10/06/2013 19:27:45

dave posted:

On the wiring kit do you meen a on off switch ? Who have you put on yours ?
posted on: 11/06/2013 06:29:31

Dan posted:

On the wiring kit do you meen a on off switch ? Who have you put on yours ?
Mine runs through a relay/switch, like Chas's safety wiring kits do. Or you can just ignore it and connect straight to the battery, it's up to you.
posted on: 11/06/2013 12:46:42

dave posted:

Was thinking about using a light switch and bracket on the 5. Amp power supply going to control box to turn power off and on ?
posted on: 11/06/2013 15:18:25

Dan posted:

Was thinking about using a light switch and bracket on the 5. Amp power supply going to control box to turn power off and on ?
Yeah that'd work. On my setup the control box with everything on (hazards, led strip, screen, cooling fan etc) draws under 1.5 amp. I like the extra relay so if the one in the control box gets damaged I've always got an easy way to turn off the motor The reason Chas does his like that I guess...
I wonder if chas has moulded any pods yet before I cut 1 up
Yeah, doesn't look like it. Have you chopped your pod up? What state is your C5 in, ready to fire it all up yet (or will it go up in flames when you turn it on)?
posted on: 11/06/2013 16:50:15

dave posted:

last part of the jigsaw puzzle is here the reed switch is the software on the nano dan ? going to run a wire from control box and pue the reed in a small project box right near the rear brake and mount a spoke magnet in the grooves of the rear right wheel on the metal plate thats part of the brake
posted on: 11/06/2013 16:55:33

Dan posted:

last part of the jigsaw puzzle is here the reed switch is the software on the nano dan ? going to run a wire from control box and pue the reed in a small project box right near the rear brake and mount a spoke magnet in the grooves of the rear right wheel on the metal plate thats part of the brake
Yep that sounds like a good place to put it. I found on mine they reed had to be very close to the magnet , but maybe my magnet isn't that strong The software has the reed stuff in it for calculating speed/distance etc. I will be making a few changes to the software at some point so if you want to apply any software updates in the future its advisable to keep a long usb cable attached to the nano and store it under the seat so you don't have to disassemble you're project box to get at it. For the display box, I've put an extra hole in it so I can see the MEGA's usb socket, again, saves me pulling apart the box to apply software updates.
posted on: 11/06/2013 17:22:05

dave posted:

What state is your C5 in, ready to fire it all up yet (or will it go up in flames when you turn it onCrying)? its good mate using my 24 v one hope your jokin about going up in flame ?
posted on: 11/06/2013 17:31:53

dave posted:

For the display box, I've put an extra hole in it so I can see the MEGA's usb socket, again, saves me pulling apart the box to apply software updates.mine as a 4 pin plug on mate so will be easy to take off ?
posted on: 11/06/2013 17:34:38

Dan posted:

What state is your C5 in, ready to fire it all up yet (or will it go up in flames when you turn it onCrying)? its good mate using my 24 v one hope your jokin about going up in flame ?
Nah it'll be fine, though I hope you know what you're doing with using 24v on it. As long as the control box just gets 12v it should work no probs in theory and the current sensor can handle 24v.
posted on: 11/06/2013 17:39:10

dave posted:

Took the kit off for now. Putting this on and never going to put power to it don't want it to bang or burn spent a fortune in the last couple of weeks and I've just won a front wheel cover on ebay too ? Don't tell the boss lol
posted on: 11/06/2013 17:50:54

dave posted:

Just a quick update done most off the wiring today just have to make wires for the sensors then plug it to the battery and watch it go up in flames well I hope not
posted on: 12/06/2013 19:16:52

dave posted:

Its working now I no. Why you put the relay outside and only got the lights wired up no room lol got it working. On the floor with motor and a set of bars had it running for 20 mins no problem
posted on: 13/06/2013 15:27:17

Dan posted:

Cool that's great to hear. About the current sensor, if you've double checked the wiring and it all looks okay but it still doesn't work, you can post it to me if you want and I'll test it here. The fan should come on at 25°C. In the top left of the screen is the motor temp. Is this updating correctly? So when it reaches 25°C the Black fan icon should start to spin around indicating the fan is on. There's not much that can go wrong with the fan wiring, just double check you've got the + & - wired the right way around as with brushless fans the polarity matters. If you've got a heat gun can you get it to 30°C and see if it still won't come on? The White screen plastic is a strange one, I've had 2 of these screens and they both work okay, yours maybe a bit duff? You shouldn't have to push it down. You could try and ask the ebay seller if you can return it?
posted on: 13/06/2013 16:39:10

dave posted:

Hey just touched the c5 on the screen and that's how you changed the time and enter the pin code cool or wot Already emailed the ebay seller now the pin lock how do you reset it ? Lol The motor temp got to 25 then turned it off lol I'll recheck the current sensor tomorrow
posted on: 13/06/2013 16:45:30

Dan posted:

Hey just touched the c5 on the screen and that's how you changed the time and enter the pin code cool or wot
Yeah, that's the best place I could think to put the options screen.
Already emailed the ebay seller now the pin lock how do you reset it ? Lol
So you've set the PIN and then forgotten it??? If you know you're PIN then to disable it, go to the set pin screen and set the PIN to 0000 and that will disable it If you've completely forgotten the PIN the only thing you can do is pull the battery out of the RTC, wait a few seconds and put the battery back in. This will reset the PIN to disabled and the time/date will also need to be set again.
The motor temp got to 25 then turned it off lol I'll recheck the current sensor tomorrow
What sort of fan are you using? A regular PC cooling fan?
posted on: 13/06/2013 17:44:38

Dan posted:

Its working now I no. Why you put the relay outside and only got the lights wired up no room lol got it working. On the floor with motor and a set of bars had it running for 20 mins no problem
When we go 24V with this thing, the uni will probably end up on top of the control box so, thinking ahead, I stuck the relay there to make it easier on the wiring. If you think of anything else to make this touch thing do that'll make it better then let me know. I've been thinking of adding a fingerprint scanner rather than a pin code and also, perhaps add an accelerometer too and a gps tracker which I could use as an alarm if the C5 is stolen and used outside of a given area.
posted on: 13/06/2013 17:59:22

dave posted:

Lol what about a mp3 player on the screen ? Using the sd card ?
posted on: 13/06/2013 18:12:39

Dan posted:

Lol what about a mp3 player on the screen ? Using the sd card ?
Yeah, I think if I want music on the go I'll stick to an iPod The SD card is reserved for data logging.
posted on: 13/06/2013 19:38:15

dave posted:

why are we going 24 v with this thing ? whats the next project ? lol not fitting till i get a pod not cutting a working pod up ? and the 1 on ebay is to dear ?
posted on: 14/06/2013 08:34:45

Dan posted:

why are we going 24 v with this thing ?
Didn't you want it to work on your 24v c5?
whats the next project ? lol
I'm having a break from C5 stuff, will probably make a game or something.
not fitting till i get a pod not cutting a working pod up ? and the 1 on ebay is to dear ?
Yeah I've not got any spares. Is there no other way you can think of to attach it to the c5???
posted on: 14/06/2013 17:12:09

dave posted:

Yip to 24v c5 now that would be good using the uni 8 just looking for indicators. For the rear ? Saw a honda off roader like a free lander sort of size and it had flat side indicators and looked a nice size
posted on: 14/06/2013 17:37:32

Dan posted:

Did you manage to sort your PIN out? Is the current sensor/fan still not working? When it's all finished and working you'll have to post some pics here and also a total bill of how much you've spent on it. You can take it into mass production and sell kits on ebay
posted on: 14/06/2013 17:51:34

dave posted:

Not ad time today been busy look at it tomorrow ? The total av too work it out ? As ebay nope lol looki ng 150 quid but got extra bits like solder and new tip and 4 pin plug and project box for reed so its about 120 -130 to make ?
posted on: 14/06/2013 18:07:20

Dan posted:

on your screen is there two metal strips that holds the white plate to the pcb mine only gos to 2 clips and there's 3 it stops just after the second 1 in the middle ?think that's y its coming up ?
Hi Dave, After taking mine off and having a closer look mine lifts slightly on the left side, but only very slightly, here's some pics from both sides: I don't have a problem with the backlight though. Is that whats wrong with yours, the backlight is dark at one end? Post some pictures of it if you can so I can see what you mean?
posted on: 14/06/2013 18:14:38

Dan posted:

Not ad time today been busy look at it tomorrow ? The total av too work it out ? As ebay nope lol looki ng 150 quid but got extra bits like solder and new tip and 4 pin plug and project box for reed so its about 120 -130 to make ?
Yeah, at £130 is it really worth doing? I think so. I use my C5 quite a lot and I imagine, if I continued to use the POD it would sooner or later stop working, or something in the control box would blow. And I like being able to see how far I've traveled and the temp. of the motor etc rather than just a bunch of LEDs and a beeper, so for me, it's worth it.
posted on: 14/06/2013 18:28:23

dave posted:

Yeah but you av your ula mod chip to fall bk on if anything gos wrong ? As for ebay I've not the funds to make 10 say. Then not be able to sell them ? But I think they would sell as is you was to do this board again ? Id put the nano as close to the exit hole on the project box
posted on: 14/06/2013 21:26:29

Guest posted:

Yeah but you av your ula mod chip to fall bk on if anything gos wrong ? As for ebay I've not the funds to make 10 say. Then not be able to sell them ? But I think they would sell as is you was to do this board again ? Id put the nano as close to the exit hole on the project box
I hope to get on with one soon, so will be badgering you with text's bud ..... Anyway hope your arm OK, Are you on painkillers ?... If so you can't have any grog and Im on the Cobra
posted on: 15/06/2013 21:56:08

dave posted:

Thanks marra arms a pain like u lol get this done you tart did you like the cakes not cake lol I won't tell the boss
posted on: 16/06/2013 00:11:16

dave posted:

here are some pics
posted on: 17/06/2013 09:33:28

Dan posted:

Good stuff, your box looks cramped like mine The screen looks ropey, shouldn't have those black lines on it. As your box has got the plastic bits sticking out to bolt it to something, does it fit the existing plastic inserts that a normal control box would be bolted to? One last thing, you said there were no current readings when you used the motor? Just checking that the wire in your picture, going to the "Forward" terminal of the current sensor is coming from the battery?
posted on: 17/06/2013 12:44:23

dave posted:

the box as 2 lugs on the lid and will just go in the fitting holes on the frame and forward to the battery and rev to relay have to look at the wiring on the sensor looks like screen is buggered looks like ill av to get another 1 ?
posted on: 17/06/2013 13:20:41

dave posted:

where can you get the strips to hold the fan from ?
posted on: 17/06/2013 13:24:02

Dan posted:

the box as 2 lugs on the lid and will just go in the fitting holes on the frame and forward to the battery and rev to relay have to look at the wiring on the sensor looks like screen is buggered looks like ill av to get another 1 ?
You'll have to tell me where you got the box from, I may put mine in one.
where can you get the strips to hold the fan from ?
Don't you have a fan already on you're 24V c5? I used some Meccano strips, cant remember where I got them from or how long they were originally but something like these or maybe a bit longer. I'll be sending Marra's board to you tomorrow, did you want me to include a screen I've got hanging around? When you get Marra's board I've cut the 2 tracks on the PCB that go to VIN on both arduinos, you'll need to solder a wire underneath to connect the two.
posted on: 17/06/2013 16:44:49

dave posted:

Got box from maplins the screen the lines have gone put abit of superglue seems a lot better I'll put some more on tomoz
posted on: 17/06/2013 17:42:06

Guest posted:

here are some pics
Hi Dave. sorry to throw a rotten bone but you may want to extend the heat shrink wrap over the terminal crimps. This will prevent a short if any debre or loose terminal comes off, could burn and totally destroy all you have achieved . thanks bud.
posted on: 17/06/2013 19:08:35

dave posted:

Going to maplins tomorrow and get some matey could get some from work but I'm on the sick
posted on: 17/06/2013 19:14:55

dave posted:

The back box ebay 200903937718
posted on: 18/06/2013 09:37:11

dave posted:

new screen on its way
posted on: 19/06/2013 08:11:16

Dan posted:

new screen on its way
Did you have to send the old one back? I was wondering where you're at with you C5, if the fan and current module is still not working??
posted on: 19/06/2013 12:02:15

dave posted:

Took it to 30 still no fan will have to take it apart and check the wiring ? Dont know if I have to send the screen back I'll have to email the seller to find out ?
posted on: 19/06/2013 12:10:57

Dan posted:

Took it to 30 still no fan will have to take it apart and check the wiring ?
Can you take the fan off and double check it works straight off a battery? And maybe plug something else into the fan connector on the PCB (like a 12V light) and see if that comes on when the temp. goes above 25?
posted on: 19/06/2013 16:38:07

dave posted:

I'll have a good look at it in the morning been to hossy most of the day the fan I didn't test was in the shed but there's a new 1 in there somewhere lol
posted on: 19/06/2013 18:51:09

Dan posted:

Right then Dave, got your control box. First, the fan doesn't seem to work when connected to the board, I think it may be to do with the PWM signal the arduino uses to vary the fan speed. So I've disconnected yours and put one of my spare fans on and it all works okay. Next, the current sensor. I think I told you to wire it the wrong way around It should be battery to reverse and forward to the relay, not to worry, getting it the wrong way around doesn't damage anything. So here's some pics of it the right way. I was testing it on a bare motor (no gearbox) so the amp usage was very low. Should be much higher when back on the C5. I'll get it boxed back up and sent to you Monday (I've missed todays post). A couple of things to note. When I got the package the RTC battery seemed to have come out and was rattling around in the box. Also, the heatsink on the arduino mega had come off and too, was rattling around your screen box. I haven't put the heatsink back on, it's in the box. I used normal super glue last time (which is a bit of a no no for heatsinks) to fix it on, not sure if we need to use something stronger?
posted on: 22/06/2013 14:05:52

dave posted:

Cheers mate owe you 1 got a new fan in the shed atleast its working now saw some 2 part glue that you mix up in poundland yesterday could try that ?
posted on: 22/06/2013 14:44:44

Dan posted:

Cheers mate owe you 1 got a new fan in the shed atleast its working now saw some 2 part glue that you mix up in poundland yesterday could try that ?
Yeah I've sent you the fan, I've got a few spare You could try the 2 part glue, I just think if it came off in the post it would probably do the same when riding the C5 over a pot hole I also put some heatshrink tube on your relay terminals like Marra suggested
posted on: 22/06/2013 15:00:18

dave posted:

Cheers bud what else could you use to hold the heat sink on ?
posted on: 22/06/2013 15:52:17

dave posted:

Did u like the idea of the reed switch in the project box so its closer to the magnet ? Next question how do you configure this with the magnet ? I've put mine in the grooves on the tin plate on the brake side as far as it can go to the rim on the wheel ?
posted on: 22/06/2013 17:55:19

dave posted:

Could be forsale for a grand
posted on: 22/06/2013 18:27:42

Dan posted:

Did u like the idea of the reed switch in the project box so its closer to the magnet ? Next question how do you configure this with the magnet ? I've put mine in the grooves on the tin plate on the brake side as far as it can go to the rim on the wheel ?
I did like the reed switch in the box. Not sure if you'll need a strong magnet to make it work though... Yeah my magnet is just glued to the metal plate, the reed pcb is inside some heatshrink tube and is bolted to the right side of the main box about 1cm away from the magnet.
Could be forsale for a grand
Yeah, well if you only use the 24v one, no need for a 12v one! You were right about that screen, the light is all at one side and the lines keep appearing when you touch it, keep hold of it as a spare for testing.
posted on: 23/06/2013 08:58:28

dave posted:

The beauty of the plug on the wire for that the screen only need 1 screen for 2 setups just saved 40 quid lol forward thinking ? And I didn't no about the 24v then ? Is there not heatsink glue or compound you can use to stick the heatsink down ?
posted on: 24/06/2013 22:00:46

dave posted:

Thank you dan job done I hope less than a month :
posted on: 25/06/2013 01:11:53

Dan posted:

Hi Dave, Here is where I have put the magnet: It's right on the rim of the metal plate, the reed sensor is on the right side of the box, less than 1cm from the magnet.
posted on: 06/07/2013 08:53:57

dave posted:

Put mine in the groove on the plate
posted on: 06/07/2013 11:23:52

dave posted:

here are some pics ? was not willing to cut a working pod up so out came the drill and put two small holes in the shell the pic with the speed on i just lifted the bk end up and turned the wheel round just needs a good clean
posted on: 13/07/2013 10:13:01

dave posted:

and since it dont have an alarm i use this
posted on: 13/07/2013 10:42:36

Dan posted:

Nice one Dave, looking good Glad to see the finished article. I'll try to get your board done tomorrow or Monday then you'll need to get your self another C5 right for that (24v touch)??
posted on: 13/07/2013 15:09:22

dave posted:

the c5 touch has not got a alarm yet so i use this
posted on: 13/07/2013 15:45:20

dave posted:

dan might take this off and put on the other c5 with indicators on but that would lower the price a bit and put the 24 v setup on this as this was my 24 v one ? is there any way you could run both setups from 1 board ? that would meen two currant sensors and the program at startup could two blocks 12 or 24 touch which you want to use then take to the right setup on screen ? just an idea
posted on: 13/07/2013 15:55:18

dave posted:

there is the spare reed pins that could be used for cur 2[blush]
posted on: 13/07/2013 15:56:51

dave posted:

got you thinking now
posted on: 13/07/2013 15:59:17

Dan posted:

dan might take this off and put on the other c5 with indicators on but that would lower the price a bit and put the 24 v setup on this as this was my 24 v one ? is there any way you could run both setups from 1 board ? that would meen two currant sensors and the program at startup could two blocks 12 or 24 touch which you want to use then take to the right setup on screen ? just an idea
Well Dave, with the new board it doesn't matter what you give it 12v or 24v (the board itself runs on 12v all the time), the board will just work. You would of course need the handlebar switch/relay in the control box for the 12v side of it but I cant see why it wouldn't work. You would just need to reconfigure the connections to your batteries and the motor (either relay or uni). There are 3 connections needed for the 24v board, GND, 12V & 24V. So to make it work on 12V you would just give it GND, 12V & 12V and it should all just work. So yeah 2 in one, I don't think I will try that, but you can give it a whiz when you get your board back?
posted on: 13/07/2013 17:29:21

Dan posted:

there is the spare reed pins that could be used for cur 2[blush]
Cant do that the reed switch is a digital input, the current sensor needs an analog input. There are 2 free analog holes on the board under the RTC for connecting other analog input devices.
posted on: 13/07/2013 17:31:05